![]() Like the patina, it is a nasty chemical that requires protective gear.Ĭoating the steel in this chemical will quickly start to remove the mill sale This is a mixture that contains hydrogen chloride and water. To do this, we use a product called 'spirit of salts'. To rust steel, this layer of mill scale needs to be removed. This mill scale also protects the steel from corrosion (to a point). A lot of people love this look as it gives the steel a beautiful and natural look. This happens in the manufacturing process in the steel mill. Steel over 3mm thick will always come with a black layer called mill scale. It is best to seal the metal as soon as possible once you have finished as even though the acid has been neutralised, it can still change.Īfter you have finished, make sure that you dispose of all of the chemicals correctly and do not put them down the sink. Once you have achieved the colour that you want, you will need to use water over the area to neutralise the acid reaction. This is the part where you need to use your judgment as there are a lot of factors that can affect the outcome of the colour and even if you do the exact same process, the next part may not be the same and you may need to do this more or less times. You may need to do this process 10-20 times until you get the desired colour. Whatever way that you choose to apply it, the number one thing that you need to remember is that you will apply it, and then quickly wipe it back off with a clean rag. Other ways to apply the acid can be with a brush or a rag that has been sitting in the solution. A gravity fed gun with a plastic cup works best as the plastic will not corrode however the insides of the gun still can. ![]() We have found that you need to act quickly as the acid is corrosive and can easily damage the gun. Any pooling or running of patina will result in different reactions showing up in those areas. If we are doing panels, then we will apply it with a spray gun with the panel lying flat. Any finger marks or other imperfections will have the patina reacting differently in these areas.ĭepending on the situation will change how we apply the patina. Generally we will first use scotchbrite as this helps the patina bite in to the metal and then we will use a thinner. The acid needs to be diluted with water- We generally dilute it 50% remembering the golden rule of working with acids- always add acid to water and never the other way around.īefore applying any acid to metal, you will need to make sure that the metal has been thoroughly cleaned. The limited availability for customers seeking aged, distressed & patinated finishes are not from a lack of demand but rather ability.First we need to make sure that no skin is exposed and that we have all of our safety gear on including gloves, respirators, and eye protection and that we are in a well ventilated area-These acids are nasty! Lately, the focus has been mainly on margin & equipment to move the industry rather than developing better skill-based methods. It relies upon industry standards like single or two-coat systems as common methods to produce metal coatings. The current culture around powder coating doesn’t lend itself easily to visual innovation. They are bound by this rule or risk losing the quality of the effect they are trying to create if not heeded. It was my muse and yet it’s a painter’s crux. Speed in production using industrial powder coatings as a creative force intrigued me the most. It was my unique background as a master painter that challenged me to capitalize and create this finish. We call it perfect patina in paradise and it’s just one of the many effects created. I’m introducing a new twist to achieving a realistic patina copper effect on metal in a non-traditional way.
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